Friday 7 October 2022

In the 'Land of Smiles'

I had the pleasure of traveling to Bangkok recently. So there I was eagerly awaiting my call to board, with a single hand carry and a million preconceived notions. For some reason, Thailand is only associated with massages and prostitution. The nation has absolutely no problems with those that visit year after year to get more than their backs rubbed, but to limit the possibilities is to, well be a typical human being I guess.
The visa process is an eye opener in that it is one of the simplest and fastest visa to get even for someone from Pakistan not to mention the nominal visa fee. When you arrive at their humble embassy, most of the crowd you see waiting to get an access to beautiful Thailand makes you want to change your itinerary. Of course most of them are there for what we call 'kheps,' which is to smuggle cheap goods and sell them for an arm and a leg here in Pakistan. Those guys are not all bad when it comes to traveling so don't be deterred by the shalwar kameez and the two inch wide mustaches or their loud voices. Surprisingly they tend to understand that it is hush hush time on a plane. And then you will find yourself amongst the relatively younger, brasher lot that want to be able to travel to a land where they may take off the shackles of their own society and enjoy a few lusty days like Faustus, for they know they have to eventually pay Mephistopheles with their soul. I don't begrudge them their wanton happiness, to each his own. In recent years there has been a great demand for a visa to Thailand by families from Pakistan. Although they really have no idea how to have a good time in the country once they get there. Oh, don't get me wrong, there are the usual tourist 'packages' that allow you to go to all the 'most visited' or 'most enjoyable' spots accompanied by a local guide. I guess that is 'fun' for the usual family who just need a bit of change from the mundane of their own city. But if one really wants to have a look inside the ins and outs of how a city should wake up and go to bed at night the best way to travel is by yourself, learning from the natives as you go along and adopting their ways and means.
Back at the airport we are. I have always traveled economy but it so happens that I belong to a city where international flights are wary to land. So when Cathay Pacific baled out, we were left with no option but to buy a business class ticket to Bangkok on another airline or wait another week and half to get away from the load shedding. Apparently when you spend extra for a ticket you are no longer a security threat. We were literally whisked along to our lounge/waiting area/buffet hall. You are discreetly told that everything you eat in the lounge is for free. We land our tushes on the plush sofas and have a look around. An old auntie talking non-stop on the cell phone to my left, talking in one of those accents Pakistanis acquire when they have lived a number of years in USA. Where the grammar has gone to hell but you 'eat Aall you wAAnt' and 'MadAnna is a pAp star.' Enter a family comprising of women and children. Perhaps the men of the family had had enough and this was their only option to get peace in the house. Two adult (by age not by behavior) women and three female children, one male child (whining and being cajoled by one of the adult ladies). The little asshole punches his older sister for some reason and calls her names while the 'adult' continues to massage his ego. And then for the next hour we were entertained by this family eating the entire buffet and stuffing their bags with packets of chips, cans of soda, and every other thing on display. The only thing they did not put in their bags were the newspapers and magazines. Reading was clearly not one of their priorities.
Once you reach Suvarnabhumi airport the notions you had start to crumble. The airport is large to say the least, it is clean and no you will not be propositioned. It is also not cheap. The taxis that can take you to the city will charge you quite a hefty amount and funnily enough you will have a choice of luxury vehicles to travel by. The most humble SUV will cost you 1000 baht to the city centre, unless you haggle like a pro.
The city is a bouquet of old and new, modern and ancient, rich and poor. A country that is open minded about all things has a tight lipped policy about it's religious and monarchical traditions. You will see intricately decorated miniature shrines usually with some sweet thing to eat or drink left at it's tiny threshold, a dedication to their ancient elders, outside all buildings. Their king and queen can be seen smiling down from almost every hoarding and billboard. One of the things that you will need to polish is your ability to speak in sign language unless you know Thai. Be patient, they certainly are.




The modern living standards in the heart of the city leave you breathless. In the last couple of decades the progress in infrastructure Bangkok has seen is a glowing example of how to move forward and progress as a contemporary urban locale.


You can lose yourself walking along the lanes which are locally known as 'soi.' The variety of street food and the established franchises present a mish mash of the most delectable kind of buffet to choose from. There is a mall in every major district of the city that boasts of it's own specific feature or set of activities. The taxi service is the best way to travel for a new tourist since the drivers make it a mission to drop you to your as long as you are able to explain to them where you intend to go. Remember you should tell them the soi number and the name of a landmark nearby. Each place has a name. 
Another way to get around is the BTS or the sky train. Which works more or less like the underground in UK. You make a day pass of 130-200 Baht and spend according to how far you go.

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